A Journey of the Senses: Newfoundland Circumnavigation with Adventure Canada

July 21, 2022 Frances Gertsch

Just recently, my friend and colleague, Annabelle Seow (Director, Marketing at The Travel Agent Next Door) went on the vacation of a lifetime Circumnavigating Newfoundland with Adventure Canada. I caught up with Annabelle to learn all about what I would consider a dream trip, and she generously took me on a journey of the senses to share her experience.

Sight

Day-by-day, Annabelle shared photos and videos of her sojourn to one of Canada’s most picturesque provinces. The images I spanned the colour spectrum. At one end were the brightly hued buildings in the outports that dotted the shore, the primary colours of the kayaks and outdoor gear as passengers traversed rocky coastlines, and the dramatic colours of the regalia of the Miawpukek Mi’kmaq dancers in the remote community that was formerly known as Conne River. In contrast, were the stark colours of the green and rocky hills, the navy blue ocean, and the grey (or sometimes vibrant blue) sky of the east coast landscape. Each time I was in awe and so grateful to see this trip through her eyes. 

Sound

The music! One would expect music on a trip to Newfoundland, right? Whether it was a sea shanty serenade belted out by a member of the Adventure Canada crew in a rocking and swaying zodiac on the way back to the Ocean Endeavour, the drumming at the Miawpukek pow wow in Conne River, the haunting flute played by Gerry Strong, being enthralled with the lively folk music from singer-songwriter Jeff Pittman, or an impromptu musical performance by an on-board guest, music carried the journey. 

Storytelling is a way of keeping history alive and this oral tradition has deep roots in Newfoundland. With a tear, Annabelle told me how musician and cultural educator (and Zodiac driver) Tony Oxford recounted stories of his boyhood in Little Bay Islands (which was evacuated after a community vote in 2019). She also told me excitedly about Tony Power – an expedition team member and naturalist who worked stewarding the bird colonies of Cape St. Mary’s for many years – who she says can spin a tale that is sure to convince you that fairies are real. 

Intertwined with the captivating folk music, this tradition of storytelling makes for many entertaining evenings aboard.

Taste

Annabelle was impressed by the Taste of Place program offered by Adventure Canada. Onboard culinary experts ensured that the locally-sourced food was prepared the way it “should” be, according to traditional Newfoundland standards. The fresh fish purchased from local fishermen – including lots of cod – brought back stories of bygone days and really connected everyone to the place they were visiting. Passengers were even privileged to sample traditional Mi’kmaq foods including moose nose, moose meat, eel, and bannock. Of course no trip to Newfoundland would be complete without a lobster dinner; a treat for many guests on board.

Smell

One of the best parts about any kind of ocean cruising is the smell of the sea air. The excursions took Annabelle and her fellow passengers by zodiac for hikes and visits to outport communities and by kayak on journeys along the shore. Wherever they were – on deck of the Ocean Endeavour, on shore at L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site (the only authenticated Norse settlement in North America), in an outport community that dots the island’s northeast shore, or on the island of Saint-Pierre, France – the fresh and salty smell of the sea was there with every breath (as was the sound of the seabirds – puffin, razorbill, gannet and murre galore in diversity and numbers enough to satisfy the most avid birder). 

Touch

Annabelle’s sense of touch was two-fold on this incredible expedition cruise. She touched the earth’s mantle at the Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park and felt the cool waters of the north Atlantic (she wasn’t brave enough to go for a swim), but she was also touched very deeply by the people she met along the way. 

Her account of the fifty-five residents of Little Bay Islands who voted, in 2019, in favour of relocation as a result of the shut down of the cod fishery was emotional. She told me, with a tear, of community members sharing the stories of the village where they grew up that is now a place where many only spend their summers. She was touched by how welcoming and open Chief Joe and the Miawpukek Mi’kmaq were in Conne River, sharing their food, customs, and traditions in a way that made everyone feel like a participant and a member of the celebration; not just a spectator. And she told me of first-hand connections the Adventure Canada expedition team had with the communities they visited. 

“Nobody creates a cultural connection as well as Adventure Canada,” she said, because they really are truly connected to the communities they bring their guests to visit. It’s clear that they live their values, that preserving cultural and environmental integrity go hand in hand. 

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